Jamavar is a highly respected name in culinary circles, with five branches around India and one in London, which already has a Michelin star! Now its doors are open at the Sheraton Grand Doha and it was with great anticipation when we were able to check it out.

Jamavar restaurant at the Sheraton has a delightful décor, engaging and informative staff, all dressed for the part – I half expected a Sikh dagger to be suddenly unsheathed to chop up my chicken. Just sayin’…

The furnishings, the décor and the atmosphere would be appreciated by a Maharajah, as would the ongoing dramatic parade unveiling dishes and delicacies from the menu that we were to enjoy. Although the menu was entitled ‘Khau Galli’, which means ’street food’, you could not feel further away from the street when you are luxuriating in Jamavar. This is the genius of the chefs masterminding the menus and cuisine at Jamavar, transforming common ingredients into delectable dishes of delight.

While there are hints of historical royal dynasties in the north, Jamavar includes ingredients and recipes from all classes and regions of India and demonstrably upholds, to the highest degree, and extends to a wider world, the values of traditional Indian cooking techniques.

Jamavar, by the way, is a fabric from Kashmir, one of the most beautiful and exquisitely designed textiles in all India. Originally it was used to make shawls which protected against the harsh cold of Kashmir in the chilly winter months, and production flourished in the years of Mughal rule. Nowadays, however, it is used to make a wide variety of garments including sarees, shalwar kameez, kurtas, kurtis and lehenga cholis.

After choosing our refreshing mocktail drink from a cute board, the presentation of the actual drinks could be a delight in itself. Our tingling mint drink had an exquisite bottle but when you do visit Jamavar at the Sheraton, please do ask for the berry aperitif, sit back and enjoy the show, accompanied by clouds of mist, mystical origins and ornate paraphernalia.

There are more than 20 items or dishes on the menu, each with three of four ingredients. The range of tastes is stimulating; these are the appetisers, nibbles, or amuse-bouche, before starting the menu: lentil fritters, masala cashew savoury, Rajasthani chilli pickles enhanced with your choice of mint chutney, tomato and bell pepper sauce, papaya relish and rose yoghurt.

Now eager to dive into the menu, we were regaled with kid goat, lamb mince, smoked lobster and chicken minced and spiced, plus a couple of vegetarian options, soya kebabs and stuffed chilis. Food was never like this on our street!

Then chef came out personally to present his signature dish which became a wonderful – and intricate – ritual adding relishes and sauces to exquisitely formed hollow spheres of pani puri, which you delicately fill with chaat to make a lovely savoury snack. One felt like a decadent aristocrat with spare time to spend on delicate digestions.

We now prepare for ‘Mains & Biryani’, wondering what wizardry will be employed here. But now, no drama, only impressive wholesome fare: melt-in-your-mouth Australian lamb biryani (of course with spices, yoghurt and mint just to increase the gratification); classic tandoor roasted chicken (with fresh cream, fresh tomato gravy and fenugreek); simmered black lentils, rendered super delicious with fresh cream, butter, tomato and Kashmiri chilli; and a vegetarian melange of potato, asafoetida (hing), turmeric and cumin. The combinations are well-chosen, succulent and very satisfying.

Some, many even, of the herbs used in Jamavar dishes have impressive health benefits but, even if they didn’t, you’d still love them for their taste and colour.

Desserts ended our meal on a high note. Whether made from mango, carrot and some form of milk, berries, fruit and nuts, the different samples were all sweet and satisfying. And I’ll never forget the ‘stick’ ice cream, a combination of lollipop and cornet with a creamy, chocolatey taste and texture. Scrumptiously, lusciously, kulfi-ously succulent.

Unforgettable. Aristo or common, palace or street, Jamavar brings out the best in all of them. fantastic flavours, and what a show!

Call 4485 3000 for reservations or you can book via Instagram, @jamavardoha.

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Author: Terry Sutcliffe

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