Steak Out at JW’s Steakhouse, Doha Marriott
Others have come and gone, but The JW’s, the original and iconic JW’s Steakhouse, is still delivering the goods.
Fine dining is no longer defined as it used to be – stuffy, formal and pricey. These days it’s more accessible to everyone. JW’s Steakhouse remains old school – best described as traditionally cosy, it’s a format that serves up recognisable dishes. The dark red walls, heavy dark leather chairs, dark wooden tables laid out in a very traditional manner, civilised lighting, heavy silverware and, especially, the serving trays, all evoke the image of an upmarket New York or Chicago steak house – it all seems so comfortably familiar, and it sets the mood, but you don’t come here to admire the view.
Like all JW’s Steakhouse servers, mine was uniformly informed and keen to explain the menu, as even the most informed epicurean can find it difficult to decipher what words like natural, grass-fed, and organic really mean, however, with so much competition out there now, JW’s is fighting back and coming straight out of the red corner, all hands on deck and firing from the hip, (I think that’s enough metaphors) The JW’s is currently promoting chateaubriand for two and that was my mission for the evening.
Chateaubriand is not a specific cut of meat but is named after François-René de Chateaubriand, a French aristocrat whose chef invented a special way of cooking it by wrapping it in cheaper meat (which was then thrown away) to prevent charring. Generally considered as the most tender, I think you could also expect it to be possibly one of the most expensive steaks on any menu and, ordinarily speaking, if you have the funds, I would normally recommend it. But at 500g for QAR 350, complete with sides and sauces, it’s an offer you can’t refuse.
As tasty as it was, I managed to resist the temptation to fill up on the pre-dinner, home-made speciality bread and herby butter, as I needed to reserve space for the main event.
The first course. Foie gras is always right up there on my list of indulgences as a starter and I could almost hear my taste buds thanking me as a generous portion, nicely seared and accompanied by some lightly toasted bread arrived at the table. Gorgeous.
Chefs probably hate me because, as an Englishman, I like my meat cooked medium well; I can’t help it, I’m just wired that way and I even enjoy the crusty bits but even I couldn’t condemn this choice cut to that fate so medium it was to be.
The main. As well as being a charming advocate of The JW’s, my server was keen to carve at the tableside. Chateaubriand cuts of beef refer to a large steak cut from the thickest part of a fillet of beef and is typically served for two people. Being the tenderloin, the meat is typically leaner but whilst this lack of fat marbling can dull the flavour, mine was just right for me, although I think medium rare might be better for you, dear reader, to keep it moist.
The sides of creamy spinach, sautéed mushroom and mash are all part of the set menu and I could almost taste the farm on the plate.
Go to JW’s Steakhouse for freedom from dieting as this iconic restaurant confidently delivers the steaks. but remember, they’re all about doing things the right way, not the fastest.
PS there is competitively priced ‘upgrade’ available too.
For reservations, call 4429 8499 or visit www.jwsteakhousedoha.com
Review by: David Moore
International man of mystery, beachcomber extraordinaire, raconteur and bon vivant.
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